Best CPU Cooler under 2K

Guys pls help me...

My Q8200 reaches 59*c on idle and 74*c on load.....
Can you suggest me best CPU cooler with good performance under Rs. 2000/-....

I have one more question, does the CPU cooler comes with cooling fan and thermal paste??...or purchase separately??....

Thnx in advance....

Under 2k, a good cooler is difficult to find seriously. Good coolers would be CoolerMaster Hyper 212 @ 2.2k and Sunbeamtech Core Contact Freezer @ 2.4k. Some coolers come with one fan but no cooler comes with thermal paste AFAIK.

^^ thanx for your suggestion.....but using the above coolers how much Degree it'll reduce??...is it worth buying low cost cooler?...

^Both the above coolers are great. I really dont know about Q8200, but on the E7400 used by asigh, he could OC till 4GHz and be on 70 degs at full load with the Hyper 212 and even topgear reduced temps from 80 to 40 with the Hyper 212 on E5200.

^^ that's nice....i don't wanna OC. I'm thinking about buying Cooler Master Hyper 212. Its comes with fan right?

Nithu said:
^^ that's nice....i don't wanna OC. I'm thinking about buying Cooler Master Hyper 212. Its comes with fan right?

yes, the Hyper 212 is a good cooler. Is bolt-attachment type, so the contacts are firm. It comes with one fan default, (pull), a second can be easily mounted. It uses 120MM standard Coolermaster fans. As above mentioned, I am able to OC to 4.00 Ghz.

Suggestion:
Use the back plate attachment to mount the cooler. It can be mounted without it. But it is better to use the back plate, will prevent bowing of the motherboard, since the cooler weighs quite a bit.

You will get a tube of Coolermaster TIM along with it. Use that, clean the contact surfaces with isopropyl alcohol prior to placing the TIM.

^Nice suggestion asigh. Many people don't notice until one year at least that their mobos are bent.

Tsk tsk. If one can spend, doesn't mean one HAS to spend. If one spends, one must know what to spend for and for one to spend, one must know the reason
The reason?
Just change the TIM on the OEM cooler rather than wasting 2k for a cooler especially if your intention is not to overclock. However there are many reasons for a bad temps. If the motherboard temps are fine on load but the cpu temp readings- there are many reasons. It either might require new bios or the thermal sensors aren't soldiered properly. If the complete system's temps are bad, then there some reasons. Substandard psu does stress the system and thereby generating heat. The case doesn't have airflow. If enough air is not pushing in and out, how can one expect it to be cool?
Start from here:
Flash to a new bios, use real temp and let us know the reported temps. Do some cable management. What kind of fans do you have have 80mm or 120mm? and what's the cfm? Room temps?

asigh said:
You will get a tube of Coolermaster TIM along with it. Use that, clean the contact surfaces with isopropyl alcohol prior to placing the TIM.

^^ Is Coolermasters TIM good? Do I need to go for Arctic Silver 5??....

The Sorcerer said:
Start from here:
Flash to a new bios, use real temp and let us know the reported temps. Do some cable management. What kind of fans do you have have 80mm or 120mm? and what's the cfm? Room temps?

I had done flashing BIOS....but I’m getting same core temps....like 59*c on idle and 73/74*c on load...
Ya I’m using Real temp 3.0.....I’m using 80mm rear fan...I think room temp is 28*c - 31*c....

^^ What's the tj max on the core temp? What about the board? Which psu? Did you read my previous comments?

Nithu said:
^^ Is Coolermasters TIM good? Do I need to go for Arctic Silver 5??....

I had done flashing BIOS....but I’m getting same core temps....like 59*c on idle and 73/74*c on load...
Ya I’m using Real temp 3.0.....I’m using 80mm rear fan...I think room temp is 28*c - 31*c....

Yea..Coolermaster TIM is fine.

Remount the HSF with good TIM, and check

The Sorcerer said:
^^ What's the tj max on the core temp? What about the board? Which psu? Did you read my previous comments?

Ya, i read your previous comments....
Distance to TJ Max is 42,44,43,44.....(what is tj max? whats the use? im a noob.)..
PSU - Zebronics 500W
How to know MB tems??...any soft?...

Nithu said:
Ya, i read your previous comments....
Distance to TJ Max is 42,44,43,44.....(what is tj max? whats the use? im a noob.)..
PSU - Zebronics 500W
How to know MB tems??...any soft?...

TJmax is the thermal junction max. It is the maximum temperature, at which the CPU will start to throttle (run less cycles ...process slowler), to protect itself from burning out. Post this, it will cease to function..and you get a computer HANG...or Blue Screen of Death. (BSOD). This is a Intel specification, and is different for each chip.

So if one says TJmax = 15C. It means, if your CPU gets 15C hotter, the above will start. This is not that accurate, I have posted some stuff related to this in the OC thread. Only when th temperatures are high...it is correct.

You can get started here and here...for hardware terms.

asigh said:
TJmax is the thermal junction max. It is the maximum temperature, at which the CPU will start to throttle (run less cycles ...process slowler), to protect itself from burning out. Post this, it will cease to function..and you get a computer HANG...or Blue Screen of Death. (BSOD). This is a Intel specification, and is different for each chip.

So if one says TJmax = 15C. It means, if your CPU gets 15C hotter, the above will start. This is not that accurate, I have posted some stuff related to this in the OC thread. Only when th temperatures are high...it is correct.

You can get started here and here...for hardware terms.

Thanks man.....thanks for the information....

I'm getting BSOD whenever i play games / doing 3d intensive work........
I think this happens when core temp reaches above 75*c....

# Use HWmonitor to know complete temps and voltages on the rails. Do put the screenshot over here.
# Changing the psu is recommended: *www.thinkdigit.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104472
# Another possibility exists, assuming the motherboard temps and cpu temps have more than 10-15 degrees difference on load (always disregard idle temps) that the thermal sensors arent reading the temps properly. To make sure the thermal sensors are calibrated properly, read this and follow the complete procedure:*www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/docs.php
# Do note that doing all this is vital, if your processor has trouble getting proper temps, changing the hsf might be futile, as you will still get inaccurate readings.

I think you can get Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro for less than 2k it has got a fan onboard, so you don't need to purchase a separate fan. Its not as good as Thermal Right Ultra Extreme but still solve your purpose if you are not heavily Over Clocking it. TRUE does'nt come up with a cooling fan, you need to purchase an 120 MM Fan. However with TRUE you don't even need a fan. Its just that a fan fixed in TRUE can make the CPU even cooler, and yes TRUE comes with thermal paste

Please provide the following:

1. Your vCore settting from BIOS.
2. Screen shot of a RealTemp run.
3. CPU-Z Screen shot. (First tab)

lets start at the root. We all are recommending -- to hay wire.

@The Sorcerer,
This is what i got using HWmonitor.

*img89.imageshack.us/img89/9885/mage1.jpg *img89.imageshack.us/img89/mage1.jpg/1/w495.png

*img87.imageshack.us/img87/4884/mage2l.jpg *img87.imageshack.us/img87/mage2l.jpg/1/w495.png

asigh said:
Please provide the following:

1. Your vCore settting from BIOS.
2. Screen shot of a RealTemp run.
3. CPU-Z Screen shot. (First tab)

lets start at the root. We all are recommending -- to hay wire.

1. BIOS readings are like this......

Current CPU Temperature : 33*C / 91*F
SYS Fan Speed : 0 RPM
CPU Fan Speed : 2481 RPM
MCP Fan Speed : 0 RPM
CPU VCore : 1.13v
VDDR Voltage : 1.87v
+1.2v Voltage : 1.22v
+5v Voltage : 4.92v
+12v Voltage : 11.72v
VCC : 5.07v
BAT Voltage : 3.07v
5vSB Voltage : 5.10v

2. Real Temp.

*img85.imageshack.us/img85/9894/realtemp1.th.jpg

CPU Cool Down Test

*img233.imageshack.us/img233/8392/realtemp2.th.jpg

3. CPU-Z

*img97.imageshack.us/img97/230/cpuza.th.jpg

The CPU is running hot..but not as HOT that you get BSOD while gaming.

Are you using the latest nVidia drivers for your GPU.

Did you reseat your CPU HSF as The Sorcerer recommended..?

^ Yes, I'm using the latest nVidia drivers.

No. I didn't reseat my CPU HSF.

Nithu said:
^ Yes, I'm using the latest nVidia drivers.

No. I didn't reseat my CPU HSF.

Then please do.

1. Use a good TIM
2. Clean both contact surfaces with isopropyl alcohol
3. Clean the HSF -- removing all dust residue.

asigh said:
Then please do.

1. Use a good TIM
2. Clean both contact surfaces with isopropyl alcohol
3. Clean the HSF -- removing all dust residue.

OK, I'll do that.
So i don't need to buy new CPU Cooler?..

Not if you are not interested in OCing.

^^ I'm not interested in OCing.....So Intel stock cooler OK?

Personally, I do not like it. But if you do the above mentioned things and your temps are fine, then its good as it is doing the job. Else, you may just have to buy the cooler.

First reseat your stock HSF as the procedure mentioned...and tell us the temperatures.

Then we can suggest. Personally I also do not like them -- but I OC.

@Techalomaniac, @asigh and @ALL..

Thanx guys......
Now i don't have TIM....But when i get one I'll post ma temps...

Hi, can we know if those temps are idle temps or temps after load? 80 degree on load is not something i,d be comfortable with. And afaik throttling starts much before tjmax ,, not too sure bout that tho.

And as for the suggestion for a aftermarket hsf . i think you should go with the Cooler master HYPER 212 PLUS its a newer ver. of hyper 212 and suits ur budget at around 1800 rupees...

aytus said:
Hi, can we know if those temps are idle temps or temps after load? 80 degree on load is not something i,d be comfortable with. And afaik throttling starts much before tjmax ,, not too sure bout that tho.

And as for the suggestion for a aftermarket hsf . i think you should go with the Cooler master HYPER 212 PLUS its a newer ver. of hyper 212 and suits ur budget at around 1800 rupees...

You can know the temperatures, because the stressing application tells so, if its putting load or idling the CPU. (Example RealTemp+Prime95)

It is a standard specificiation -- throttling to start at TjMax. What is the definition of 'much before'. If throttling would start 'much' before Tjmax then most Intel CPUs would be throttling more than spinning at the highest frequencies...!

Hyper 212 Plus:
I had the choice to buy this too, but did not go for it. It has a basic design flaw. The copper pipes are made to make direct contact with the CPU. But due to this, there are gaps in the overall surface. So the overall HSF surface is not in contact with the CPU block. Though that area can be filled with TIM.

*img39.imageshack.us/img39/50/closeupsurfaceexplained.jpg

Though apart from this small trivial matter, this is a good HSF for the money.

asigh said:
Hyper 212 Plus:
I had the choice to buy this too, but did not go for it. It has a basic design flaw. The copper pipes are made to make direct contact with the CPU.

That is not a design flaw but rather an innovative design :smile:

Do some googling and you will find out why...

royal said:
That is not a design flaw but rather an innovative design

Do some googling and you will find out why...

yes it is. I meant the part where the copper pipes do not make direct contact with the CPU head.The innovation is the part that the copper piper are going to touch the CPU directly, but there will be gaps. That is what the design flaw is.

Of course I googled it a lot...!

asigh said:
The innovation is the part that the copper piper are going to touch the CPU directly, but there will be gaps. That is what the design flaw is.

Had it been a conventional one, even then there would have been gaps...that is why TIMs are there ;-)

Offcourse this can be minimised to an extent with lapping but then it would still be there...anyways no offence meant by my opinion :smile:

royal said:
Had it been a conventional one, even then there would have been gaps...that is why TIMs are there

Offcourse this can be minimised to an extent with lapping but then it would still be there...anyways no offence meant by my opinion

Absolutely no offense taken...!

Basically Coolermaster could have engineered the fabrication better, and kept the copper pipe and aluminum spacing (at the bottom) absolutely zero. Yes..as you mentioned, that space can be filled with TIM. I was not comfortable with too much TIM on my contact surfaces so never bought the Hyper 212+ version.

Well its your hard earned money after all :razz: