XFX 8800GTS 320MB replacement??

P

As my XFX 8800GTS 320MB is not working properly but the card is under warranty as 1.5year is still there. As this card is no longer available with rashi peripherals so as in the policy if the card is not available they will give u the higher model in exchange of that card. So can u please tell me which card should i go for. And also the price difference.

Will rashi peripherals replace the faulty card with the choice of my graphic card?

You can rejoice, if your card is still in warranty, you will get the latest card from nvidia in the same price-range, or slightly above the price-range, of the card at the time you purchased it.

Last year my friend got an nvidia 9800GTX+ in replacement for the same card you have.
You might get an nvidia 200 series card, like the gtx240 or 250. At the very least you'll get a 9800GT.

My GTX260 sonic stopped working so I got a GTX275 as a replacement.

P

r4gs said:
You can rejoice, if your card is still in warranty, you will get the latest card from nvidia in the same price-range, or slightly above the price-range, of the card at the time you purchased it.

Last year my friend got an nvidia 9800GTX+ in replacement for the same card you have.
You might get an nvidia 200 series card, like the gtx240 or 250. At the very least you'll get a 9800GT.

My GTX260 sonic stopped working so I got a GTX275 as a replacement.

Can u please tell me as i purchased the card in Delhi from rashi peripherals.
Can i make my own choice or they will do it automatically or do i need the pay the price difference

^I think his was from Palit. XFX

Good luck.

9800GTX+ or GTS250 (7.1k) or GTX 260 (10.5k) . How much did you purchase the card for? Accordingly ask for a replacement.

P

Krow said:
^I think his was from Palit. XFX Good luck.

9800GTX+ or GTS250 (7.1k) or GTX 260 (10.5k) . How much did you purchase the card for? Accordingly ask for a replacement.

I purchased the card for Rs 18000 (1.5year back). Can u please tell me did ur replacement is done by rashi peripherals in delhi and do i need to pay the price difference if i want GTX 260

Its not me, but it was r4gs who had his replacement. Never had a card fail on me.

18k

Then you may ask for GTX275 @ 13k.

P

will XFX Nvidia GTX 260 is good for the replacement of xfx geforce 880GTS 320MB?
And what do u think for the price after the replacement?

And please also tell what power connector is required as my smps has only one 6pin connector for PCI-E card.

*www.priceindia.in/computer/xfx-nvidia-graphics-card-price-list/
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Krow said:
^Use a molex to PCI-e 6pin converter and you should be fine. Its available at any local computer store. Which SMPS?

GTX 260 is a good replacement. Again, which SMPS?

P

smps zebronic 640W.
But the power requirement of teh card is still not clear
Do i need both 2*6 pin power connector and one 8pin power connector?
Power Requirements: Non-SLI: 630W Minimum Power Supply
SLI: 680W Minimum Power Supply
2 x 6-Pin Power Connector
One 8-Pin Power Connector

Errr.. That's not too good. IMO it will be able to power the card, but I don't like the idea of a zebby powering a high end rig. It's too risky. Best get a good SMPS like the CM Real Power Pro 460W @ 3.5k and be at ease with good reliable power for your system.

P

But do i need both 2 x 6-Pin Power Connector and One 8-Pin Power Connector?

or only one combination like only 2 *6 pin power connector or only one 8 pin power connector?

*www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=3334

The GTX 260 consumes a maximum of 183W and only needs two 6-pin power connectors

P

Thanks for the info so i need one more PCI-E 6 pin power connector.
Can u please also make one more thing clear. molex to pci-e 6.
As one some site the is only one molex is used to convert to pci-e 6 and on some other site they use two molex to one pci-e 6 connector

Only one molex is used to convert to 6 pin pci-e
*www.aria.co.uk/Products/Peripherals/Cabling/Power/+4Pin+Molex+to+PCI-E+6Pin+Adapter?productId=17133

on this site two molex is used
*www.atxpowersupplies.com/Molex-to-PCI-Express-Adapter.htm

Can u please clear which one will work for me?

Both should work AFAIK. I would be able to tell you better if I were using a graphics card, but since I am using onboard, I think asigh can guide you best. Drop him a PM.

P

Just PM the asigh to have a look at this

Hey Paroh. Sorry missed the PM in the inbox.

So...what are the exact queries, you want me to help you with, since I am reading this thread so late.

1. The replacement -- which one.
2. Power connectivity.

What has Rashi offered you, which card you getting. Post that I can tell you the exact power connectivity you would require.

My card was from Palit. I just mentioned it to show that you can get upgrades if the same card isn't available in stock.
My friend mentioned in my post had an XFX 8800GTS 320mb.
My friend was offered an upgraded version of the 8800, but he opted to pay 1k extra and got the 9800GTX+.

The GTX260 is quite an upgrade over the 8800, you will need at least a 550W power supply (mentioned on nvidia website). You will need a good SMPS from a company like coolermaster or corsair or tagan, etc. I use the coolermaster extreme power plus 600W smps and it is perfectly capable of running the card. Just make sure you take at least 600W SMPS for a 70+ rated unit.

^It is not necessary to get 600W though. A 460W 80+ unit like the CM Real Power Pro 460W can handle the 260 pretty well. Otherwise there is the good old Corsair VX450W.

Yes. I only mentioned coolermaster 600W as it is comparatively cheaper I think, not sure though. Corsair vx450 is above 4k right? The CM extreme power was only 3.2k.

Its all about quality of power. IMHO CM Extreme series is crap. Much better and reliable power can be found in the CM Real Power series. 80+ matters a lot. CM Real Power Pro 460W @ 3.5k and Corsair VX450W @ 4k. El cheapo PSU's suck.

I'm using the coolermaster extreme power series and it is perfectly stable. It is perfectly capable of running the 260 sonic, and now the 275.

In theory at least, I doubt an 80+ 460W can give the same amount of power as a 70+600W. I don't know about the amperage though. Will have to check.

Either way, for a g card, it is the 12V rail that matters, and if it can adequately supply the juice to run it, then there is no problem whatsoever.

r4gs said:
In theory at least, I doubt an 80+ 460W can give the same amount of power as a 70+600W.

Wow! This is just too good. So, this means a Zebby 800W is much better than VX450W. Great. /me moves out of this thread for good.

r4gs said:
I'm using the coolermaster extreme power series and it is perfectly stable. It is perfectly capable of running the 260 sonic, and now the 275.

In theory at least, I doubt an 80+ 460W can give the same amount of power as a 70+600W. I don't know about the amperage though. Will have to check.

Either way, for a g card, it is the 12V rail that matters, and if it can adequately supply the juice to run it, then there is no problem whatsoever.

Man, you are stupid or dumb.or a NOOB.

Do not know what to say. You really know what an 80+ or 70+ rating means on a PSU. It does not straight correlate to 80+ 460W vs 70+ 600W. That rating clearly states, how clean/constant/spike free the power will be to the output devices.

And from where in world you got this "Either way, for a g card, it is the 12V rail that matters". What the heck. Since when did "G" series card have a different "rail" requirement, then other computer equipment.

Man, even a Zebronics, or iBALL PSU can supply power to a "G" card. But can it provide it cleanly at :

1. High temperatures.
2. Extreme rated threshold.
3. Constantly.
4. Regulate minor voltage spikes.

Please rectify your craft, then post here.

^Nice one. :doublethumb:

/me has the feeling that this will not end here.

r4gs said:
I'm using the coolermaster extreme power series and it is perfectly stable. It is perfectly capable of running the 260 sonic, and now the 275.

In theory at least, I doubt an 80+ 460W can give the same amount of power as a 70+600W. I don't know about the amperage though. Will have to check.

Either way, for a g card, it is the 12V rail that matters, and if it can adequately supply the juice to run it, then there is no problem whatsoever.

Listen, you're a good poster but you need to know a few things first.

1. Efficiency of a PSU 80%(80+) does not mean it can at maximum deliver 80% of is rated max output(i.e 80% of 460=368w). It means that at max load or at an average(different ways to measure) the PSU outputs 80% of the power that it draws from the wall, i.e why a 450w rated Corsair PSU can provide upto 570w. Follow-

So 80% efficiency: say your system draws 250w from the PSU, so its drawing(250/8 )*100=312.5w from wall.

70% Efficiency: 250w draw, PSU draws 357.1w from wall.

SO higher the efficiency lower the relative power consumption, means your electricity bill stays down.

2. The max output of a PSU HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH EFFICIENCY, it has everything to do with the rating and quality of the internal components. Corsair and seasonic(also tagan, pc power & cooling and lot more) uses high quality components and under rates the SMPS while cooler master does not do that for extreme series PSU, so while a VX450w can deliver 570w(not to mention more clear SNR ratio, i.e clean power) the CM Extreme power 600w may only deliver about 550-600w max, and also the poor build quality of CM extreme series makes it vulnerable to over voltage related damage, about a dozen of my friends use all sort of PSUs from CM to Corsair and CM has the highest failure rate among imported smps(CM extreme-2 failures, Corsair-0 failure, zebronics, frontech and etc local made- about 12 failures so far).

I don't doubt that CM600w can power GTX260(maybe GTX275 too) but be assured that the lifetime of the PSU will be lower and the failure rate higher that any corsair or tagan smps.

God, I can't believe that I wrote something this long.

@krow: You are right on that count.

@asigh: I am a 'NOOB', as you so neatly put it and if you wish to correct me, or anyone for that matter, I suggest you do so in a more mature manner and stop acting like an immature imbecile.

Just because you are a geek who spends 24x7 in front of his computer screen (and this is called 'sarcasm***' by the way so try not to take it literally) is no excuse for not learning basic manners. There are plenty of websites which can help you learn.

what is a 'g' series card supposed to be? If you are referring to 'g card' in my earlier post, then it means 'graphics' card.

Also, thank you for the clarification regarding 70+ and 80+ units.

*** also for your information, sarcasm is defined as: A form of verbal irony, expressing sneering, personal disapproval in the guise of praise.

r4gs said:
@krow: You are right on that count.

@asigh: I am a 'NOOB', as you so neatly put it and if you wish to correct me, or anyone for that matter, I suggest you do so in a more mature manner and stop acting like an immature imbecile.

Just because you are a geek who spends 24x7 in front of his computer screen (and this is called 'sarcasm***' by the way so try not to take it literally) is no excuse for not learning basic manners. There are plenty of websites which can help you learn.

what is a 'g' series card supposed to be? If you are referring to 'g card' in my earlier post, then it means 'graphics' card.

Also, thank you for the clarification regarding 70+ and 80+ units.

*** also for your information, sarcasm is defined as: A form of verbal irony, expressing sneering, personal disapproval in the guise of praise.

Don't get angry, just :chillpill:

, we're all friends here.

Does it end now, please?? :unsure:

@tkin: thanks. I've always been confused on that point.
So what is the 500W or 600W rating supposed to mean then? Is it just some sort of naming convention or is there some logic behind it?

I should have checked this out before taking my PSU i suppose. Can't be helped now.
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Posted again:
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I'm not angry. Just putting him in his place. I don't like people who can't keep a civil tongue.

r4gs said:
@tkin: thanks. I've always been confused on that point.
So what is the 500W or 600W rating supposed to mean then? Is it just some sort of naming convention or is there some logic behind it?

I should have checked this out before taking my PSU i suppose. Can't be helped now.

Well that ratings for the Continuous maximum output.

Peak vs. Continuous Power

When you read the current (or power) rating of a device such as a hard disk, you are usually seeing the manufacturer's claim of how much the device uses during normal, continuous operation. The actual peak draw of the device is at its maximum, however, at startup--not while it is running. The +12 voltage provided by the power supply is used primarily to drive disk drive motors. Because of their design, these motors can take up to double their steady-state current when they are spinning up from rest. If you have 3 or 4 hard disks in your system and all of them start up at the same time, this can be a tremendous demand on your power supply's ability to provide +12 V power.

Fortunately, most power supply companies take this into account and build into the power supply the ability to exceed its normal output for a short period of time during startup. You will usually see this specified as a "peak" rating, often only for the +12 V line, where this is a particular problem. (It is much less of an issue for the +3.3 and +5 voltages, and therefore many power supplies do not specify a peak rating for these voltages.)

Despite this extra capacity, it is still a good idea to not load up your system to the very limit of your power supply's stated power capacity. It is also wise, if possible to employ features that delay the startup of some disk drive motors when the PC is first turned on, so the +12 voltage is not overloaded by everything drawing maximum current at the same time. See this section for more on hard disk power issues and how problems can be avoided at startup.

Peak Output: The amount of current that the voltage specified can supply for a limited amount of time. Usually this is specified only for the +12 V signal; see here. Ideally, the manufacturer will specify not only the peak output current but the amount of time the supply is rated to sustain that peak. For example, the continuous maximum for +12 V may be 10 A, the peak level 14 A, and the peak level may be sustainable for 10 seconds.

tkin said:
Don't get angry, just , we're all friends here.

Does it end now, please??

Yea..it ends.

r4gs said:
@krow: You are right on that count.

@asigh: I am a 'NOOB', as you so neatly put it and if you wish to correct me, or anyone for that matter, I suggest you do so in a more mature manner and stop acting like an immature imbecile.

Just because you are a geek who spends 24x7 in front of his computer screen (and this is called 'sarcasm***' by the way so try not to take it literally) is no excuse for not learning basic manners. There are plenty of websites which can help you learn.

what is a 'g' series card supposed to be? If you are referring to 'g card' in my earlier post, then it means 'graphics' card.

Also, thank you for the clarification regarding 70+ and 80+ units.

*** also for your information, sarcasm is defined as: A form of verbal irony, expressing sneering, personal disapproval in the guise of praise.

Just because you are a geek who spends 24x7 in front of his computer screen

I took this as a compliment. Thanks. Seriously. This is what I do. And I literally enjoy it to the core. Thanks...!

Apart from 6.5 hours of sleep, and 3 hours of office travel, the rest is all spend in front of the screen. I love it.

As for putting me in my place..I think you just did..by the above mentioned line...!

Also one word of advice:
Always ..and always before making a statement in a place like this, make sure you are absolutely sure that you are 100% correct. Many people come to this forum, and they could read your posts, and be misguided. Right..! Just remember this, and you will have a great time here. Peace.

OK. That helps. Thanks.
So basically, 70+ units draw more power while supplying comparatively less power, which is also less pure, in comparison with an 80+ unit? (a limerick in the making

)
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Posted again:
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@asigh: Well, I was pretty sure about what I posted, that is why I posted it. Just misinformed I suppose. That is why this forum, and for that matter, magazines like Digit are there, to clear up such misconceptions and lead 'NOOBS' like me to the light.

r4gs said:
OK. That helps. Thanks.
So basically, 70+ units draw more power while supplying comparatively less power, which is also less pure, in comparison with an 80+ unit? (a limerick in the making )
-----------------------------------------
Posted again:
-----------------------------------------
@asigh: Well, I was pretty sure about what I posted, that is why I posted it. Just misinformed I suppose. That is why this forum, and for that matter, magazines like Digit are there, to clear up such misconceptions and lead 'NOOBS' like me to the light.

Yes. Nice tongue twister :doogone:

OK. Very important lesson learned today. Thanks a lot you guys.

P.S. I did mean everything I said about bad language though, it can be insulting and comes across as very childish. This IS a mature forum I think and people should be charitable enough to allow a little leeway. This isn't directed at Asigh, just expressing my thoughts in general.
Save the creativity for the fight club though, you know what they say, 'All is fair in love and war!'

PPS- I'm through for the night, Goodnight all!

^^ Same man, I am through for the night. Am damn tired. Have to wake up tomorrow to go and watch "Ninja Assassin" (Will still be a 'geek' in front of a screen).

r4gs, its great reading your posts, you post well. I apologize if a few punches were below the belt. Shalom...!

You ain't no NOOB.

No worries.
I am a NOOB regarding a lot of hardware though. I never had my own proper PC till a few months back. I'm only learning now.

^^
Though you have a good rig man. We all are 'NOOBS' is some way or another. Even I am buddy.

I would suggest, that you get a nice OEM HSF for that E7400, and OC it. They OC really well. I am running at 40%t OC.

By the way, which motherboard you have...?

I run mine at 3.4GHz when I game or do some animation work. Otherwise I run it at default speeds.
It does get a bit hot. 70C when OC under load. I am on the lookout for a cooler. I'll be going to bombay for exams. I'll get one over there.
I need to change the RAM though, my e7400 is multiplier locked so I have to bump the FSB and carefully tweak the voltages. My RAM causes crashes above 850MHz so I have to decrease its stepping or multiplier or whatever its called to about 1.5 or 2 to restrict the RAM speed to below 850.

mobo is gigabyte GA-G31-M ES2L. (only rs2.3k but quite a good one at the price)
At the time I purchased I was on an ultra tight budget and needed a powerful PC for animation, so I compromised with mobo and PSU in terms of future upgrades.

I'm aiming for a proper SLI capable mobo sometime next year, followed by a PSU and CPU upgrade after that. The 275 should last me 2 years at least so I'll upgrade that last, maybe keep it as a PPU as mentioned in the g card thread.

Any suggestions?

P

@asigh thinking of getting xfx gtx 260 but as i see the power requirement, it required the two 6 pin power connector but my smps has only one 6 pin power connector. I search the net about it as there are a option available to use molex to pci-e 6 pin power connector.

But the confusion is that on some site two molex is used to convert to 6 pin pci-e power connector and on some site only one molex is used to create a 6 pin pci-e connector.

Please also tell is it possible to use only one Pci-e 6 pin power connector?

^^
Answered here:
*www.thinkdigit.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1187738&postcount=354

r4gs said:
I run mine at 3.4GHz when I game or do some animation work. Otherwise I run it at default speeds.
It does get a bit hot. 70C when OC under load. I am on the lookout for a cooler. I'll be going to bombay for exams. I'll get one over there.
I need to change the RAM though, my e7400 is multiplier locked so I have to bump the FSB and carefully tweak the voltages. My RAM causes crashes above 850MHz so I have to decrease its stepping or multiplier or whatever its called to about 1.5 or 2 to restrict the RAM speed to below 850.

mobo is gigabyte GA-G31-M ES2L. (only rs2.3k but quite a good one at the price)
At the time I purchased I was on an ultra tight budget and needed a powerful PC for animation, so I compromised with mobo and PSU in terms of future upgrades.

I'm aiming for a proper SLI capable mobo sometime next year, followed by a PSU and CPU upgrade after that. The 275 should last me 2 years at least so I'll upgrade that last, maybe keep it as a PPU as mentioned in the g card thread.

Any suggestions?

You should be able to manage the Coolermaster Hyper 212+ in your budget. It is good.

Which exact RAM you have. Ideally if you want quick RAM, then you should go for CL4's and run them at 2.1V @ 5-5-5-15. They should then run at 1066 Mhz. You can read the OC thread in the Chit Chat section, I have created a flow chart there, specific to Intel.

For good SLI, pick up any X58 from Asus, Gigabyte, or MSI. Put in a i7, tri-channel it, and mount another GTX275. Use a TX750. Happy rocking....!

After 2 years a GTX275 will be quite old, Directx12 will probably be in the works!

My ram is 2 standard kingston 2gb modules at 800MHz, I don't know about timings but I suppose these are the standard fare everyone buys as they were only Rs2.2k for both.

The TX750 is the PSU?

^^
I guess -- if you want to use the GTX275 as PPU, it will be way over kill. But then you cannot SLI two different GPU series. Probably a Fermi would do well..whenever it comes.

If you could tell the RAM model number from the sticker/print/packaging, we could help with the timings and voltages.

Yes the TX750 is the Corsair PSU. But its better suited for Xfire/SLI.

I'm leaving for bombay today. Don't really have the time to rip apart my cabinet.
Its not really important though as I am not upgrading anytime soon. Maybe 4 months at least for mobo upgrade.

Didn't someone mention that you can sli a 9600gt as a PPU with a faster card? It was in the G card thread.

If it can't be done I suppose I'll sell my card and then buy a new one. However, all this is at least 2 years away so no point in thinking about it now.

^^ In 2 years..you finish college...or is that date something else...!

Yes. Sort of.